Let me be the first to welcome you to the Bee Benefactor.
If you are looking to find out a little bit about this blog, please stop by The Landing Board page to get started!
Whether you are a beekeeping newbie, a veteran apiarist, a gardening enthusiast, or just generally share fascination and concern for any of the 20,000 bee species worldwide, I hope that you find something that interests you. Feel free to be part of the conversation.
Thanks,
The Bee Benefactor.
You may have just had an awkward conversation with a neighbour as they bashfully announced they keep honeybees in their yard, or worse you peeked over your fence and witnessed a box buzzing with little stinging, killing machines! The horror! What ever will you do?
As an overall message, I would try to establish an open dialogue with your beekeeping neighbour. They are usually more than happy to talk about their bees, and often will try to do things to alleviate any concerns you might have. Remember, your neighbour has likely put countless hours of work (not to mention a fair amount of money) into starting and maintaining their hive, so it is difficult for them to justify completely getting rid of their bees. The most important thing is to ask for your neighbour’s emergency contact details, in case you need to tell them if something is happening with their bees.
This article will hopefully give you some information and context as to why your neighbour is keeping bees, how you can help the bees out, and what to do if you have questions or requests regarding the bees and their hive.
Short answer: Normally, they love honey, bees, the environment or their garden (exceptions apply).
It is difficult to speak for every beekeeper, as there are many motivations for wanting to keep bees. The most obvious reason is that people want to collect honey, and this is generally one of the more common reasons people have to keep bees. I personally keep bees because I have almost always been completely fascinated by them and am concerned about their declining numbers worldwide. Others I know do it to harvest other bee products, like wax, propolis, pollen, or pollinate their gardens (or farmland). Some people like keeping or helping local species of native bees by providing a home for them, and keep them as a way to prevent their extinction.
Short Answer: Probably Apis Mellifera (European Honeybee). But it can depend on where you live.
It is important that you do not assume anything. There are approximately 20,000 species of bees globally, and a number of those bees are social (and have hives or nests). The most commonly kept bee (especially in “Western” countries) is Apis Mellifera or the “European Honeybee.” The major reason they are so popular is that they produce a lot of honey, and possesses traits which make them relatively easy to control and multiply. Apis Mellifera are most commonly kept in “Langstroth Hives” (with some exceptions, depending on the host country) which consist of stack (usually 2-3) of boxes roughly 30cm x 50cm and 25cm high, however there are many configurations and variations on this size. There are multiple “strains” of Apis Mellifera which can slightly change the size and colour of the bees (e.g. Caucasian honeybees are usually very dark, whereas Italian honeybees have the golden stripes most people are familiar with).
If you look over the fence and see a box which is about the size of a basketball or a large shoebox (i.e. not very big) it is likely that your neighbour is keeping stingless bees, which are likely to be native to your area (e.g. Tetragonula Carbonaria in Northern parts of Australia). These bees are normally very small, and can be confused at a distance with little flies. Stingless bees are also very important to the environment, and will not likely cause you any issues at all, as they cannot sting (thus the name), and generally have smaller populations than honeybees.
If you live in a country like Japan, you may have a neighbour with Asian Honey Bee hives (Apis cerana). This type of bee is commonly viewed as a pest in non-Asian countries (especially Australia), as the bees are not seen to be as productive as their European counterparts, and carry some pests (like the Varroa mite) which are bad news for Apis Mellifera apiarists. However, certain Japanese beekeepers view their local stock as tougher, more suited to the local climate, and adapted to fighting local predators.
They only way you can truly be sure as to what type of bee your neighbour has is to ask them.
Short answer: No, unless you are very very very unlucky (or provoking the hive).
Assuming we are talking about Apis Mellifera, It is highly unlikely that you will get stung. Beekeepers can normally stand right next to their hives and not be stung. The reason people are normally stung is completely by chance, where they accidently step on a bee (etc). Remember: bees die when they sting, which means they usually only do it in defence of their hive (and maybe sometimes, defence of themselves). The exception to everything I am saying is if the hive is provoked. If the hive is directly exposed to large amounts of carbon dioxide (like a person breathing into the entrance, or a lawn mover sitting next to it), or the hive is opened or struck, the hive will likely start searching for nearby predators (for example, large, hairy, fleshy ape-like creatures like humans). If this predator refuses to leave the area quickly (usually approximately 10-20 metres from the hive), they may be stung. Please understand that the language I am using (like “may” or “could”) indicates elements of chance and risk, each hive is different in terms of temperament, and therefore cannot be accurately predicted. There are some hives which are characteristically “more grumpy” than others.
If you are worried about being stung, you can discuss putting up a 1.6 – 2 metre barrier between you and your neighbours hives (like a hedge or fence) which forces the bees to fly over your yard instead of through it. Alternatively, if you have been stung, letting your neighbour know is a great way to start a dialogue (as they may be unaware that this has occured, and should want to try and prevent this from happening further).
Short answer: they are lost, or confused, or (very rarely) very thirsty.
There could be a few reasons. If it is daytime, the bee may have simply accidentally navigated in through a window or open door. Bees can not effectively perceive glass, and it is easy for them to wander inside of a house and find it difficult to understand why there is an “invisible force-field” preventing them from leaving. If it is night time, it is likely due to the bees being tricked by your fluorescent house lights (because the look like the sun to a bee). Bees navigate primarily using the Sun, and (long story short) their confusion as to why they are seeing the Sun at night leads them to be attracted to it. If the instance is limited to one or two bees, you can usually use a container to catch the bee, and release it outside. If the problem is recurring, you may need to speak to your neighbour about orientating their hive so it does not face your house lights (or is blocked by a screen of sorts). If you are feeling particularly accommodating, you could also try to limit the use of external fluorescent lights, and draw your curtains at night.
There is a small chance the bee came in looking for water, which can easily be mitigated by asking your neighbour to put out a container of water (with something floating in it, to make sure the bees don’t drown). You could also set up such a container, especially if you would like the opportunity to watch the bees up close, as they will sit still for several minutes whilst sucking up precious H2O.
It is important to remember that the bees are usually lost or confused and are not “hunting you” and therefore should not be aggressive. If bees are stinging or attacking you in your own house, this should not be happening, and could be due to your neighbour using incorrect beekeeping techniques when opening the hive. Speak to your neighbour about this as soon as possible, as they are probably not aware of the trouble their bees are causing.
Short answer: probably, but just be wary that beekeeping can be an expensive hobby, and some beekeepers need to sell their honey just to break even.
Most beekeepers I know will happily provide their neighbours with a jar of honey every now and then. This is why it is important to open a dialogue, if the beekeeper knows you are interested in the bees, they will likely respond to your hospitality with honey. Just be aware that some beekeepers do not keep bees for honey, or may only harvest enough for themselves and therefore find it difficult to provide their neighbours with honey too. There are also times that mean the beekeeper cannot harvest honey, like drought (which causes flowers to produce less nectar) or winter (which causes flowers to die). If you are wanting to help the beekeeper, sometimes offering to buy their fresh, local honey is a great way to get some at a discounted rate.
Short answer: most people have minor reactions to bee stings, only a small percentage of the population have severe life threatening reactions. You should consult a doctor if you are worried about bee allergies.
Most people are somewhat allergic to bee stings, due to the venom which is injected into them. Most people experience a stabbing pain (similar to stepping on a needle) followed by a burning pain. There is a sliding scale of reaction after this initial pain, ranging from a small red mark and soreness/itchiness in the area around the sting (called a localised reaction), to difficulty breathing or moving (called a systemic reaction). Only a very small percentage of the population suffer from “systemic” reactions, and it is difficult to predict what reaction you will have unless you get stung. Some people develop a more severe reaction over time, others can become desensitised and have less of a reaction. I would recommend consulting a doctor if you are worried about being allergic to bees, as there are medications and other measures you can get to mitigate the effects of being stung.
Letting your neighbour know if you are seriously allergic to bees is vitally important, as it should shape the way they manage their bees. You can specifically ask them to let you know when they are opening the hive, and they should provide you with their emergency contact details, just in case you need them to help you. If your neighbour is ignoring your concerns, I would advise consulting your local government body, and see what options are available for reducing or removing the risk.
Short answer: there are lots of ways. Find some local bee friendly plants, give them some water to drink, stop using pesticides, support your local beekeeper by buying their honey.
Bees are amazing creatures, but they are not perfect. They require large amounts of food (in the form of pollen and nectar) and water. Planting bee friendly plants (it is best to do an internet search to find bee friendly plants local to your area) and allowing dandelions and clover to grow in your lawn give bees extra sources of food. Putting out a container with water (like a bucket) with floating platforms to prevent the bees drowning (like wood chips) will allow the bees to get a drink if they are thirsty.
Most pesticides have negative impacts on bees, and restricting or ceasing their use is a very big step to helping them. If you want to find out more, read The Wall of Shame for a list of products which kill bees (in Australia).
Lastly, ask if your beekeeper sells their honey. If they do, offer to buy some. Beekeeping can be an expensive hobby, and selling honey is often a way for your neighbour to keep maintaining the health of a bee colony. It will also allow you to appreciate the delicious taste of local honey.
Short answer: You should be able to, as long as you comply with local laws.
Bees are usually too busy focusing on their own hive to worry about attacking other hives. There are occasions (usually when there is not a lot of nectar) when bees may try to rob another hive, but this can generally be prevented with careful beekeeping. Talk with your neighbour, and try to join a local beekeeping club, read a few books and find out if beekeeping is really for you. From a practical standpoint, it is great having who neighbours who are beekeepers, as one can often help the other with some of the more difficult tasks, or watch their neighbours hives whilst they are on holiday (etc). You will rarely find a beekeeper who will try to discourage you from beekeeping, unless there is a very good reason for it.
Short answer: Unfortunately, in most places, you can. But I would strongly encourage you to use this only as a last resort.
As a beekeeper, it is really sad to hear when another beekeeper is forced to sell (or worse, destroy) their hive due to an “anonymous” complaint. The beekeeper has usually put a few hundred dollars into starting the hive, not to mention hours of devoted maintenance time, just to see it all go down the drain. Most beekeepers I know are willing to have a chat and try to negotiate to make sure both of you are happy. If you have tried to talk to your neighbour, and the bees are ACTUALLY affecting you, and the neighbour has refused to do anything about it, I would then proceed to contact your local government body. In certain parts of the world, you can contact your local beekeeping club and get them to act as mediators to help solve the issue, and I would advise doing this first (if possible) as it might yield a better (and faster) result.
You shouldn’t try to take matters into your own hands, as destroying, stealing or otherwise tampering with the hive may amount to trespassing (as well as other offences) which can attract legal trouble. It also will not guarantee that your neighbour doesn’t just simply replace the hive. +
Short Answer: Contact your neighbour first (if you can), then try your local beekeeping club/government body. If someone has been stung who deathly allergic to bees, call an ambulance immediately.
It is highly unlikely this will ever happen. If your yard is suddenly full of bees, it is likely due to a swarm of bees having arrived there. Sometimes this is temporary (as they may have just stopped in your yard for a few hours to scout around), or it might be permanent (as somewhere in your yard is desirable for them to set up). Swarms are generally docile, as they do not have a hive to defend. However, even fully knowing that information, they are often very intimidating, and it is still advisable to leave them alone (unless you know what you are doing). If you know your neighbour is a beekeeper, it is best to contact them as soon as possible, as they will usually be glad to hurry over and claim the bees for themselves. Do not assume that the swarm is necessarily from them, as bees can swarm over a number of kilometres to find a new home. If your neighbour does not want to collect the bees, or you do not know any beekeepers near you, and you have waited 5-10 hours (to make sure the bees are there to stay), you generally have two options:
In cases where you have a family member (etc) who is deathly allergic to bee stings, or you have found that the bees have made a proper hive inside of your house/walls, it is still best to try option 1) first, as a local beekeeper may be able to advise you better than an exterminator as to what you should do. If time is a factor, or you are physically unable to enter/exit your property, you may have to resort to option 2), as this will likely be the quicker option.
There are ways to kill bees yourself, however many of them cause the bees to become “infuriated” or “frenzied” which can cause them to attack anyone and anything in a large area. I would not recommend someone who is not an experienced beekeeper or exterminator attempt this. Products known as “wasp killer” spray which can be found in (Australian) hardware stores, and shoot a stream of insecticide over a number of metres (verses a common household pesticide’s fine mist) are the most successful at (almost) instantly killing bees, allowing you to stay a long distance away and spray. I would ask that you do not use this option until you have exhausted all other options, as the hive you destroy would likely be very useful to a local beekeeper and beneficial to the local environment.
“It takes a village to raise a child” as the proverb goes, and likewise it takes a community to raise a beehive. Directly or indirectly, the actions of you and your neighbourhood can collectively decide the fate of a local beehive. Whether it be because you chose to work with the beekeeper instead of anonymously complaining about them, or planting bee friendly gardens and restricting your use of pesticides, you are making a difference. On behalf of all of the suburban beekeepers out there, thank you for helping us out!
The following was a response I posted to Facebook (which I have edited to suit a blog post), regarding a question/statement which accused foundationless beekeepers of being “hippies.” This hopefully presents a bit of both sides of the argument, and allows people to understand why people go foundationless.
The concept of foundation was popularised by Dadant, Langstroth, et al. The concept was designed to make large scale commercial beekeeping simpler and quicker for honey production, and does not consider the biological requirements of the bee (Langstroth believed that the honeybee was created with the sole purpose to service humans). In fact, the foundation cell size was specifically designed to artificially create larger bees (with Apis Mellifera tending to revert to building comb closer to 4.9mm), capable of carrying more nectar, with little consideration for other ramifications this might have. Contrary to popular belief, you are not necessarily a “hippy” for not using foundation, there is growing consensus that allowing the bees to control their own cell size allows them to better control diseases. Be warned though, going foundationless can require some more attention (to prevent cross combing), and also requires your hive to be relatively level to the ground (as bees prefer to build comb whilst hanging, and therefore will follow gravity).
Pros for using foundation:
Pros for not using foundation
“Big, stupid, useless males.”
I am always frequently surprised by the reaction people have to drones. I think people are very quick to apply human characteristics to Bees, and the drones easily fill a “big stupid useless” person image we have ready in our mind. There is also an overused stereotype that drones being “typical males” just lounge around, letting the “women” feed them all day, and they only exist to “have sex” which is a series of traits often used to comical effect. Bees, surprisingly, are not humans. They do not possess concepts like sexism, laziness, etc. In fact, every bee in the colony has a dictated role, with subtleties and intricacies that we as humans may never truly understand. I would invite you to discard your human biases and stereotypes before analysing any type of bee.
What are drones?
Drones are technically the males on the species, believed to be named after the loud noise they make when flying. For the biologists playing at home, the drones are the result of an egg not being fertilised by the Queen, and are considered haploid (i.e. they have half of the genes/chromosomes of a worker or another queen). Drones are larger than a worker, and have much larger eyes than a worker (which are two easy ways to distinguish them). Drones are generally born from slightly larger cells than their female comrades (often called “drone comb”) which are visibly different to other brood when capped. They do not have a stinger (as the sting evolved from an egg laying device, which males did not possess), and therefore they cannot sting. Drones also cannot feed themselves, and it is thought that their large eyes are for tracking a Queen whilst she is in-flight. The drones will often be kicked out of a hive when resources are scarce, although there are exceptions to this rule.
Why are they important?
Drones are the only mechanism a Queen has to pass her genetic information on to future generations of her colony, as well as other potential colonies who may be nearby. Drones are the only inhabitants of a hive which possess solely the Queen’s DNA, and therefore should be treated as an extension of the Queen. There is also evidence that Drones contribute to the hive’s ability to thermoregulate, as they are almost always in the brood chamber, generating heat. Every drone that does not survive, limits the Queen’s chance of passing on her genes to the next Queen. Think of it as a Queen’s insurance policy: if something goes wrong and/or the Queen has to leave (or is killed), the next generation of Queen will be born of her genes and the dynasty alive Her drones may also wander into other hives, and mate with other Queens, which therefore insures that her dynasty may spread and combine with other gene pools. There is also emerging evidence that drone populations can promote genetic diversity, and which contributes to hive productivity.
Why do people hate drones?
It is simple really: drones don’t make honey. In fact, looking at a beehive purely as a honey making machine, drones are a totally unnecessary part of the machine, guzzling precious honey for no real benefit. It also gives foundation producers and sellers a great tagline for their product, which (in theory) limit drone populations. Unfortunately in the real world, bee colonies are not purely honey making machines, and the fact that people have the audacity to think that they know how many drones should be in a hive is beyond me. We don’t dictate how many nurse bees a hive has, nor do we dictate the number of foragers, why do people insist on artificially limiting drones?
Even if you aren’t actively trying to limit drones in your hive, if you are using foundation, you are likely artificially limiting your drone population, as you are making it difficult for the workers to properly raise drones in a restricted cell size.Remember, foundation was originally designed for major honey producers, who had a vested interest in limiting drone numbers to make their honey making machines more efficient (again, in theory). Unfortunately this mentality has been passed on to those in the hobby and smaller scale beekeeping world, and other points of view are rarely offered to those starting out.
This article is written for educational purposes only, I do not recommend trying this without having a higher degree of beekeeping experience, and having taken necessary precautions to deal with being stung. Also, ensure that you take your neighbours into consideration, as they may be uncomfortable with a topless person rummaging through a box of stinging insects. Trying this yourself is purely done at your own risk.
Today I had my first experience of “topless beekeeping” in my Kenyan Top Bar Hive (KTBH). What is topless beekeeping? Essentially it involves manipulating or inspecting a honeybee hive without any veil, gloves or shirt. It also implies that you are not using smoke (or similar), however I can totally understand someone’s desire to do so. In fact, I ended up conducting the inspection with little more than shorts and thongs. Top Bar Hives, especially the Horizontal varieties, have a reputation for resulting in more docile (or less grumpy) bees. I also strategically picked a time of day where majority of the bees were out flying, which usually results in an easier inspection generally.
How did you do it?
It was a very hot summer day in Brisbane, and I decided that I was going to attempt to check on my Top Bar Hive (TBH), to see how it was progressing (as it was merely a swarm just over a week ago). I took the lid off of the hive, and removed a few top bars from one end of the hive. I then systematically picked up a bar, rotated it in a manner as to not break off the comb (the comb must always be perpendicular to the ground), had a look at what the bees were doing on the comb, then placed the comb back into the hive, leaving enough space for me to get the next top bar. If I had not left enough space, I am certain I would have rolled the bees as I lifted the combs, and potentially had some angry bees coming up to see me. When I was finished, I placed the missing bars back, and put the lid back on, easy as pie.
Did you get stung?
Surprisingly, no I didn’t. At one point, I accidently knocked a frame, which caused a few angry bees to fly around and head bump me, but after a moment of letting the situation calm down, they returned back into the hive. I would like to point out that if I had at any point made a big mistake, I would likely have been stung, but being in a situation of vulnerability makes you slowly consider every action you take, and I feel reduced my rate of errors. Having no gloves greatly increased my dexterity, which also prevented some of the handling errors I experience.
Why didn’t you get stung?
I believe that had I conducted this type of beekeeping on a Langstroth hive, I would likely be covered in stings from the waistband upwards. I feel that the TBH allows for a more gradual approach to checking the bees, only exposing a small amount of the hive to the outside world at any one time. I believe that this is causes less disturbance to the hive, compared to removing the entire lid of a Langstroth hive, and therefore majority of the bees inside are probably relatively oblivious to the intrusion. I have also heard that horizontal TBHs limit the loss of hive atmosphere (which I covered in a previous article) however I have never seen any science to back up those claims. As mention above, I also chose a time of day (roughly mid morning, 10am) to inspect the hive, as I knew there would be fewer bees inside and therefore fewer bees to annoy.
No seriously, why didn’t you get stung?
It is a common misconception that bees will sting you at the drop of a hat. I believe that this is in part due to the ‘killer bees’ phenomenon seen in the US media (which was over dramatised by US news and entertainment), and partly due to wasps, hornets and ants all being treated as the same animal. I once had someone ask me if honeybees were just wasps that could make honey. Ultimately, unless you are either very unlucky (e.g. accidently sit or stand on a bee) or very silly (read: beekeeper) and intentionally harass or attack the bees, merely standing near a hive and observing is highly unlikely to result in being stung. I was able to use a bit of beekeeper judgement and very slow movements to ensure that any interactions with the hive were not perceived as a threat by the colony.
What did you learn?
I actually learnt a lot from this experience. Whilst I have fiddled with TBHs in the past, this hive is my first serious attempt at raising a hive from scratch. It is really great to see that the demeanour of the bees is much milder when in the TBH. I also did not observe and hive beetle (as of yet) which is not uncommon at this early stage, but is still encouraging. I also learnt that the bees are using the half dowell (see: semi-cylindrical wooden sticks) I am using as comb guides to great effect. All combs drawn thus far are looking straight, and I counted combs larger than the size of my hand that were already almost full of honey and pollen. I also learnt that the solid sugar blocks I put into the hive to entice the swarm to stay are still being eaten (I would estimate approximately 50% had been consumed). I will try to make a video of my doing this again in the future, for your viewing pleasure. If you have any questions, be sure to let me know at beebenefactor@gmail.com.
I would like to introduce the Bee Benefactor Update series to the blog. The post will be an update of how my hives are going, any upcoming events, and any interesting information which I find which is too small for its own update. If you have any bee related news or local events you wish to promote, feel free to email me at beebenefactor@gmail.com.
New Blog
You may (or may not) have realised that the Bee Benefactor Blog has successfully transitioned to a WordPress.com blog (from blog.com). During the next few weeks you may notice some style changes as I experiment with the new format. I encourage you to let me know what you think of the new style, and to “follow” the blog if you want to keep up to date with that is happening on the blog. A very exciting time indeed!
New Swarm
After what has been quite a productive season for my hives, my “main colony” in by backyard apiary decided it was time to swarm. They chose a tall “Sheena’s Gold” tree (Duranta erecta) in my yard, which is very interesting as approximately 80% of the wild swarms I get called to tend to be resting in a Duranta erecta style of tree, which if I was forced to speculate I imagine may be due to the large amount of foliage cover and intersecting branches providing both concealment and support to the swarm. After quickly and letting the swarm fall into a metal trashcan I had handy, I simply walked a few metres to an empty top bar hive and poured the bees in. I had two or three top bars coated with wax, and a block of solidified sugar in the hive which immediately got their attention. I actually found that this swarm collection was the easiest I have ever conducted, and the bees have already started constructing comb. This was only three weeks after I conducted a split on the original hive, and the fact that all three hives are seeming to do well leads me to speculate that the food sources in my area (South side of Brisbane, QLD) must be plentiful at the moment.
New beetle trap
The Beetltra trap being removed from the side of the hive bottom board. .
Like most places in Australia, my hives have to contend with African Small Hive Beetle (SHB), which are in no short supply at the moment. I decided to try a new style of bottom board SHB trap; the Beetlra. I conducted a split of my strongest hive and put the split on to a Beetlra 10 frame with cleats. It is in week three of its operation, and after checking the trap every seven or eight days, I have found that the trap usually has a minimum of five beetles, and has had a maximum catch of 15 so far. I am stocking the trap with a mixture of vegetable oil (to drown the beetles) and apple cider vinegar (to attract the beetles), however this is against the manufacturer’s advice (they say that Agricultural Lime is the better option, as oil mixtures can clog up the the operation of the Beetltra). I have also heard of people using food grade diatomaceous earth to destroy beetles.
New Hive
As mentioned above, the new swarm has conveniently allowed me to stock my newly created Kenyan Top Bar Hive (KTBH). Whilst I have experimented with top bars in the past, this is my first committed attempt to start an apiary with both top bar and Langstroth hives. I will try to keep you all informed as to how the KTBH goes, especially when compared to the Langstroth hives.
Sign Off
That is all from me for this week. Let me know in the comments if you have collected any swarms recently, or whether you have used the Beetltra with any success.
Regards,
The Bee Benefactor.
For the two of you out there who do not know, the Flow Hive is an ingenious invention which was successfully crowd funded with over $12 million pledged to the project. Furthermore, the technology is Aussie grown, with Cedar Anderson and his small team going through years of careful development in the laid back surrounds of Byron Bay.
The Flow Hive is very clever. It makes the process of harvesting honey a lot quicker and more accessible to people from many backgrounds, including those with mobility and strength issues which prevent lifting supers, and working from above a hive. The Flow Hive team themselves seem to preach a “natural-lite” beekeeping style, emphasising the importance of letting bees form their own comb, and limiting the use of pesticides and chemicals inside of the hive. They have also started to release a series of videos which look very promising and (are so far) simple and easy to follow. Overall, I have no real issue with the Flow Hive, or its inventors. Conversely, I find that the Flow Hive has captured the imaginations of the public (internationally) and anything which brings bees and beekeeping into the public eye I find are usually beneficial to the bees.
I certainly do not want to be the one to kill any new beekeeper’s enthusiasm, but I feel that I need to conduct a few reality checks to save some heartache and disappointment later down the line. I will briefly write about some of the realities which beekeeping rookies may have overlooked (or ignored) when deciding to start beekeeping with a Flow Hive. Continue reading
One of the first concepts I learnt when hearing about apicentric beekeeping was the concept of “hive atmosphere” and its vital role in colony health. Hive atmosphere describes the ideal conditions inside of the hive, and takes into consideration the temperature, humidity and other environmental factors at which the honey bee hive smoothly operates at. Brood seems to develop in the hive most effectively at 32°C (and Queen cells at 35°C) at a humidity between 50% and 60%. This implies that in warmer months, bees must expend energy to fan the hive and initiate evaporative cooling techniques, and in the cooler months generating heat using their wing muscles. Even in Brisbane, which is relatively free from blistering hot summers and snowcapped winters, the first twelve days of 2016 have yielded a range of 18.5°C minimum and 32°C maximum temperatures, with 41% minimum and 95% maximum relative humidity. This is before you even take the many various pheromones and vibrations the bees use to regulate their internal operations and efficiency. For the bees to maintain constant hive atmosphere, the hive has to expend a lot of time and energy.
A beekeeper should consider that every time they open their hive, they are releasing the hive atmosphere that the bees have created, and therefore negatively impacting the health of the hive. Even if you are not an apicentric beekeeper, the concept is quite simple: every time you open your hive, the bees need to burn energy (see: honey) to return the hive atmosphere back to optimal levels. You, as the guardian of these creatures, should take it as a personal mission to help the bees maintain these conditions, which you can do using a few of the following practices. Continue reading
I decided to go on a voyage of self reflection and ponder the most common questions I am asked as a beekeeper, and construct answers which would not only allow me to better understand people’s curiosity (and fears) associated with bees, but also potentially teach some people who may stumble upon this page a thing or two about bees. I will update this post from time to time, if I find a different question keeps popping up, but ultimately this is aimed at people unfamiliar with bees or beekeeping. If you are a beekeeper yourself and wish to contribute, or have a question which is not answered here, please shoot me an email at beebenefactor@gmail.com. Continue reading
The following is an opinion piece, designed to promote discussion and thought about helping all bees (not simply Apis Mellifera). If you are offended by this article, I would encourage you to take part in the discussion, but please keep in mind that people of all ages may access this site, and aggressive or harassing behavior will not be allowed. If you have any submissions, please feel free to contact me at beebenefactor@gmail.com.
Bees are very interesting creatures. There are literally tens of thousands of types (in the vicinity of 19,200 globally) that we know of, which means that there are more types of bee than there are mammals and birds COMBINED. In Australia alone, we have over 1,500 known species, including the increasingly popular (and increasingly endangered) stingless varieties (e.g. Tetragonula carbonaria) of which there are 10 known varieties. Bees have multiple ways that the harvest pollen and nectar, with some using very long tongues to reach into deep flowers (like the Amegilla bombiformis aka the Teddy Bear Bee), others (like the Amegilla cingulata aka the Blue Banded Bee) use a technique called “buzz pollination” to vibrate a flower causing pollen to fall off onto the bee. Fascinating as these methods are, the implication is that multiple bees require multiple types of flowers. Continue reading
The following is a guide written to assist people who are looking to find out more about pesticides and their effects on bees. This should be used as generic educational advice only and does not alter your obligation to follow local laws and rules, on top of safety requirements relating to the application of insecticides. If you have any submissions to add to this post, or requests to amend its contents, please email me at beebenefactor@gmail.com. Continue reading
The Bee Benefactor 